30 January 2026
Strada Atlantica
I start the day dry, and 9:00 I walk out. I need to go to Strada Atlantica, the main road going north, parallel to the beach. I see on Google Maps, that there is also another road going up. It is totally straight with 90 degrees angles. This must be a man made path next to the main road. When I climb over de cut trees, I am on the path, which is in the forest.
Yes, it is a nice path and leads to lots of windmills. Hearing the aggressive sea and on top the wind caught by the windmills, it is as if a car is following me constantly. But I am totally alone.
Lots of Fallen Trees
After this windmill road, I pass some beaches, Praia Areia, de Falca and Legua but I am mostly on the road. There are a lot of fallen trees on the road. When I go towards the ocean on wooden walk ways, I cannot pass at the end, close to Strada Atlantica, because there is a big tree in the way. There are two men sawing and say something like: private terrain. I jump off on that private terrain and pass the tree, I am not walking back this time.
There lies the GR-sign red-white, now i understand that I can’t find the track. Of course I pass some nice old wind mills but this was the only photo without destruction that I made.
Lots of Steps
Praia de Paredes da Vitoria goes steep up and down. It has a wooden boardwalk too with a lot of steps. I’ll take this road, I like to see some ocean after walking on the road for a long time. The Polvoeiro beach, and Praia da Pedra do Ouro, and finally Sao Pedro de Moel. A nice little beach town. The whole city is empty, but full with destroyed things on the floor, scary to see.
No Electricity and No Water (from Tap)
I wanted to go to a restaurant here before heading to my sleeping place but all restaurants seem closed. I don’t see anyone, looks like a ghost city. Then I see a mini-mercado and I talk to the men outside. They advise me to buy water and cookies or snacks because there is nothing, no electricity and no water. I see people buying lots of bottles of water. Crisis.
Tough Head Fall
I buy some fruit and chips and I continue a km to go to the tent that I reserved. Well, it could be that there is no tent at all anymore. I passed a camping this morning, where the caravans were upside down. When I see the light house, there is a lot of rubble on the floor. The house lost a lot of tiles, and because I didn’t want to walk with all the rubble, I cross the street. There only one tile is on the floor, and in one time I fall on the floor. If it is not enough my head hits the floor very hard. Must be the weight in my backpack. What a terrible end of the day.
What Now?
Not really the end, I find out that the camping is destroyed, so I can’t sleep there. People suggest to go to Marinha Grande, a bigger town where there are more options to stay. I walk a km back, to see if there are busses. But I find out that there were no busses yesterday. Then the man I talked to outside the supermarket walks by and advises me to sleep in Miramar, the hotel in front of us. They have a generator and he charges his phone there because he knows the owner. Interesting, because he didn’t know that the hotel is closed as soon there was no water and electricity. They have sent all the guests away and cancelled their bookings. THey are working hard to bring new roof tiles to the roof.
Taxi Back to Sitio Nazaré
I sit in the hotel on their soft couch, I didn’t take a break because all is wet. I may use their internet. The receptionist tells me that the more north you come, the worse it is hit by the storm,, and even Marinha Grande is without electricity. She says in Nazaré, it is good. I know, because I came from that place. In the end she calls a taxi for me to go back to Nazaré. I will sleep and eat there again, ibut in another Albergue.
Sleeping @Casa do Mar
Coincidentally the hostel is behind Spray B&B, the place from yesterday. Casa do Mar. Here I have a heater too, and a large bed with such soft bedding, It is as if I sleep on a pluche flat teddy bear. Wonderful. The owner of the house, a woman tells me not to go outside close to the sea, there is too much wind. Also I cannot go outside with my just washed and wet hair, that is too cold. Portugese are somewhat afraid for rain and coldness to your body. She smiled when I mention that in The Netherlands it is much colder, and the temperature is actually nice outside.
The mini-mercado is good, with freshly baked cookies, and warm quiche.
I have dinner @ Luis at the end of the street. It is a Seafood restaurant, it is good and not expensive. They even make a fresh pineapple-orange juice for me. In some restaurants they only serve coke and ice tea and something like Fanta. So that is not for me. This health freak wants fresh juices.
